Frequently asked questions
What’s Special About Australian Labradoodles?
What’s Special About Australian Labradoodles?
They are actually an Australian developed breed. They were developed as Assistance Service dogs in Australia for people who needed help, such as the disabled, who also had allergies to dog hair. The key elements of breeding were to create very trainable, friendly dogs with non- shedding (hypo-allergenic coats) .
The original breeds involved were Poodle, Labrador, Cocker spaniel, and Irish water spaniel, to get their particular coat and friendly, relaxed trainable temperament.
Dogs born in this country from this original developed line are still called Australian Labradoodle or Australian Service Dogs. Sometimes to avoid confusion they are now called Australian Cobber Dogs.
The other difference between English Labradoodle and Australian is how established the breed is and the predictability of the outcome.
This is where genetics is involved. It’s hard to explain, and I don’t want to zone anyone out but any combination of a Labrador and Poodle is a labradoodle, but if you just cross a Labrador and Poodle the puppies can vary from very Poodle like to very Labrador like, or anywhere in between.
They are all probably lovely dogs but some may have hair like shedding coats, others may be woolly non-shedding, others in between. Some may have a more Poodle temperament, others a more Labrador temperament.
If you want predictability you want to look for multigenerational labradoodle. ALL Australian Labradoodles ARE truly multigenerational; to be called Australian Labradoodle the puppies need to have an Australian Labradoodle father and mother, not a Poodle or Labrador.
Australian Labradoodle defining characteristics
*good with children
*easy to train
*friendly to other dogs
* Extremely clever, sociable and joyful but calm nature
*quick to learn unusual or special tasks
*they look more of a solid build than early generations, a kind of teddy bear look
Why might I want an ASD or Australian Labradoodle?
• I have an allergy to dog hair
• I want to avoid dog hair in my house as I like to keep it really clean
• I have young children and want a safe pet with predictable temperament
• I am a first time dog owner and want an easy to train dog
• I want a gentle character for therapeutic use
• I want a playmate that is fun
• I secretly want to own a kangaroo (these are great jumpers, sometimes I think part kangaroo)
• I want to teach my dog special tasks for fun or work such as helping me, agility, tricks, fly-ball etc.
• I want a dog that looks like a cuddly teddy-bear
• I want a dog with a water resistant coat
• I want to stroke a super-soft coat
What’s Special About Us?
What’s Special About Us?
We are a large family (6 kids, age from 4-20, plus friends and visitors) who see having puppies occasionally as a family adventure and learning experience. We have at most one litter a year and do everything to the highest of standards, investing all we can in the puppies.
What does this mean in practise?
- It means nearly 24 hr attention for the first 2 weeks of their life (I move in with mum)
- Early neurological stimulation (ENS) from day 3-14
- Regular handling and grooming exposure, nails trimmed a weekly to protect mums belly while feeding and to encourage confidence also used to being washed, gentle clippers and hair drying
- Misty Method of early potty training to give them a head start
- Sounds sociable programme by Dog Care Trust (exposure to variety of sounds which can otherwise frighten puppies and dogs)
- Puppy culture of socialisation to make sure they have been well prepared for world beyond breeders
- Early conditioning and pre training to set you up for a successful training experience
- Top quality natural raw food and natural weaning from mum
- Lots of cuddles and play with little ones and big, young and old, chickens, machinery, outside
- Exposure to crate
I hope this gives you an idea of how much time and love we invest into them. If you read our testimonials, once we get them updated on our new web, you will see their comments reflect the work described above.
If looking at other breeders it is worth asking how many of these things they do. I am not saying they all need to be done to have a great puppy, but I would definitely ask about sound exposure and socialisation strategies for the puppies sake, and if you visit a puppy breeder where their space smells a lot of wee it can mean you will have a harder time potty training them because they are used to being in a dirty environment.
All the best on your puppy search
Why are these dogs so expensive?
Why are these dogs so expensive?
If you have just started looking at this breed you may be shocked at the price and think us breeders are just money grabbing individuals.
The usual price in the UK is £1800-£2500. If any puppy you are looking at is much outside this range it may not be an authentic Australian labradoodle.
So why this price?
This is a breed developed for specific traits and a specific purpose. One of which is the ultra low shedding nature of the coat, paired with a particularly trainable and human orientated sociable nature.
This reliability of coat is actually very difficult to achieve and maintain and requires both a protection of the genetics to keep the low shedding, and a constant investment in diversity to prevent inbreeding.
This is a fine and challenging balance, and part of this process means reputable breeders do very expensive health testing, and expensive investment in breeding dogs which are often imported to maintain genetic diversity.
For an idea here is a breakdown
A breeding female £6000-8000, more if needing to be imported
A breeding male £12000-£15000 or more if imported, alternatively £2000 each time you use a stud, plus long distance travel and often accommodation for breeding days.
Health checks, such as hip scoring and other genetic health checks around £500
Breeding insurance £600 per year per breeding female.
Breeding licence £140 a year, more if more than 3 litters
For each litter:-
£2000 for stud fees
About £2000 for all puppy health checks, mum vet bills/ routine medicines/ puppy microchipping, and early spay/neutering
Also advertising costs, replacement equipment, breeding quality food, blood tests etc…£2000-£3000
All in all, if having had to buy a female and equipment the first 2 average size litters cover initial costs.
Then of the females remaining 2 litters, roughly 3 puppies worth of each litter is spent on overheads.
This leaves the rest as income for work done. Which if a reputable breeder is a lot of work. The care of and siring of female in pregnancy, the first 2 weeks of 24hr care of puppies, literally sleeping with mum and puppies, then a full on further 6 weeks doing..
Washing bedding 3x day
ENS individually with each puppy daily
Individual handling and socialising of each puppy daily
2 hourly toileting and clearing up of all puppies
Weaning and often hand feeding at start
Early training/structured exposure and activities, such as washing and grooming, crate training (3-4 hrs a day)
It really is a full time job. Easily 12 hr days. Never mind admin, time for visiting families etc.
Rough time estimation, not including before birth/siring/ travel days/admin etc
First 2 weeks 24x14….336hrs
Next 6 weeks 12x7x6…504hrs
Total conservative estimate 840 hrs
So with an average litter size of 7, 3 puppies in cost, 4 puppies at £2000 gives £8000 which works out at about £9.50/hr.
Of course there are lovely dogs out there at much lower costs. For some breeds the overheads will be much less, and some breeders will spend much less time investing in their puppies, but it is not a quick way to make easy money.
If the cost is prohibitive, there will be other breed options for you, but beware of a cheap Australian labradoodle, I would question the authenticity.
And with any breed be cautions of too cheap. A serious breeder who takes health checks seriously and sees their breeding as their work, and gives the puppies the investment they deserve will need to earn something for their time. Good breeding is a serious and professional business to prevent puppies with problems which end up unwanted and in shelters.
You are investing in a family member hopefully for many years to come, so see choosing your breeder in the same light as you would choosing a good school for your kids. Can you get a lovely family pet cheaper, yes, but please do your research and value the work good breeders do.
Wherever you find your furry friend and whatever breed or mix you finally choose we wish you a successful and joyful addition to your family, and are content even if we have only been a step on the way, and delighted if we have contributed to an increased awareness in what to look for when looking at various breeders.
Wishing you joyful living
About Poppy (Pocahontas)
About Poppy (Pocahontas)
Poppy is our breeding girl. She came from Lisa Carson doodleDogs. Lisa is an established breeder who invests a lot of time and money to ensure the very best lines and genetic diversity.
We have had the joy of Poppy for several years.
She is a lovely gentle girl although excitable at times. She has helped several people overcome their fear of dogs. She has been easy to train. Some everyday examples are
- Waiting to be told she can eat
- Leaving other animals alone, cats, chickens, sheep
- Only coming in certain areas of house when invited (really useful when people afraid of dogs)
- Waiting to go through doors/gates/over walls if told
- Loose lead walking, she never pulls
- Sit/down/on your bed
- Figure of 8, hoop, tunnel, jumps weaving etc, ringing bell to go outside, crawl, shake hands
She is first and foremost a family pet. However she has a clear genetic background suitable for breeding.
George the father is apricot/caramel.
George is a happy settled boy , playful but also calm enough to chill in his bed . With his excellent ofa hips, clear elbows and patella checks he is our proud descendant from doodledogs Rutland paint em red line (his grandmother )who was the first 0/0 hips and elbows labradoodle at the BVA the father is similarly health cleared. The details of their health tests are below
• Clear (P) means clear by parentage- both parents have been tested clear i.e without the recessive gene so offspring are clear
- *Carrier: Recessive Gene bred to clear gene. CANNOT produce an infected puppy. 50% chance of puppy having a recessive gene which is irrelevant unless breeding is intended. Only affected pups ( genes on both sides ) can develop the illness.
Early Neurological Stimulation
Joyful Living Australian Labradoodles
EARLY NEUROLOGICAL STIMULATION
From days 3 -16 we use the bio sensor programme of Early Neurological Stimulation on our puppies. This is a series of gentle exercises which is designed to gently stimulate the nervous system. This gets the puppies used to human contact very early and has been shown to increase their adaptability to stress in their future lives, and handling of the puppies is good for them, mostly they need quiet uninterrupted time with mum.
The exercises are as follows…
- Tickling between the toes with a Q tip for 3-5 seconds
- Holding the pup in two hands with head up for 3-5 seconds
- Holding the pup with head down for 3-5 seconds
- Holding the pup on its back for 3-5 seconds
- Placing the puppy belly down on a cold wet towel for 3-5 seconds
- Better cardiovascular capacity
- Stronger heartbeat
- Stronger adrenal system
- More tolerance to stress
- Greater resistance to disease
Whether it accomplishes these claims I don’t know, but it does get the puppies used to being handled and also us used to their individual characters and temperaments of each puppy. The American army feels it is time well spent for future adaptability, teachability and health in their dogs. So we try to give our puppies every advantage in our power.
Here is a link of me doing it with our last litter
Weeks 3-16 are vital in the development of your puppy. This is the age that sets the scene for whether they will be frightened of sounds or different situations and people.
Most of this time is spent with the breeders. It is vitally important to know how they help your puppy be well adjusted for the life they will lead with you.
This is what we do…
This is a sound recording done by dog trust. This includes everyday sounds such as household things, outdoor noises, but also those noises most often frightening to dogs such as fireworks and machinery etc.
We play these to the puppies every day from 2 weeks old. Aiming for twice a day with the volume low to start with then progressively louder we make sure they are regularly exposed to these sounds.
Puppy Plan of Socialisation
We use the framework of the Puppy culture plan of socialisation which you can look up to make sure the puppies are well prepared. This is a useful and comprehensive reminder for us of things the puppies need to be exposed to.
WE also have our own shortened checklist that we make sure happen frequently. We call it our rule of 6
- Meet at least 6 different kinds of people, 6 times
- Go on 6 different kinds of surfaces, 6 times, including at a height, this is important for grooming as they can develop a fear of heights
- Eat in 6 different places 6 times
- Go in a car at least 6 times
- Experience grooming, at least 6 times ( we do some grooming aspect 2x a week from birth
- Be exposed to bikes/balls, sticks/umbrellas at least 6 times
It is vital on taking your puppy home that you are with them those first weeks to strategically continue that process. If you take home one of our puppies we will suggest week by week opportunities you could take.
We know some of you will end up finding puppies elsewhere but please be aware of this issue.
Here are some pointers
Minimal approches to look for in a breeder
The puppies are brought up in a household where they will hear household noises and meet a variety of people
That your breeder makes sure they meet lots of people including men and children
That the puppies are handled daily
that they are exposed to a programme such as sounds sociable which includes other sounds they could be frightened of eg fireworks, loud vehicles, doorbells, machines
that they are exposed to different surfaces to walk on
that they spend some time away from litter being interacted with and fed separately
that they have several car journeys
that they have exposure to relevant grooming, being on a high surface and health examination handling teeth, paws etc this makes it much easier in the future
Bonus approaches, really good breeders will
the breeders follow a strategic socialisation plan such as puppy plan, or puppy culture
It is a survival instinct that puppies will be anxious of whatever they have not been exposed to (positive exposure) in those first 16 weeks as in the wild anything which they had not been exposed to by mum was probably dangerous and something they should keep from when starting to venture further afield. Anxious dogs are more likely to become aggressive dogs. Exposure to as many things as possible while able to comfort themselves with a feed from mum and the presence of littermates really build their resilience.
https://www.facebook.com/DerbyshireDoodlesbyPoppy/videos/1720430111319198/ video of ours
https://www.facebook.com/DerbyshireDoodlesbyPoppy/videos/1702404116455131/ video of ours
Misty Method of Early Toilet Training
Misty Method of Early Toilet Training
Did you know that what the breeders do during the first few weeks with the puppies can affect how quick and easy it will be to toilet train your puppies?
What makes the difference?
The Misty Method is for the breeders home only, from 3 to 8 or 9 weeks. It teaches the dog that there is a designated spot to toilet and makes it easier for the new owner to toilet train their new puppy.
it is up to the BREEDER to keep the box/nest very clean. This causes an aversion to poo and pee.
When this is done right, by the time the buyer purchases the pup, he will already be ready to not pee in his crate or bed, as they do not pee or poop where they eat or where they sleep.
So believe it or not, what goes on from the time of birth to the time you buy the pup plays a big role on the young life and what a buyer will be faced with. With this in mind, a breeder named Bev Dorma from MistyTrails Havanese/Mastiffs has created a method called the "Misty Method."
It is basically a way of raising the pups that gives them a concept of housetraining at an early age. This makes the puppy easier to housebreak once they go to their new homes.
From the start we keep a distinct bed, play and toilet area. Wild dogs would keep a clean den and there is a natural instinct for this, but it can be over ridden by poor habits. What does this mean in practise……
First 2 ½ Weeks
We use a whelping box with a lip, so ONLY the dam can get out, but the pups are contained.
After 2 1/2 Weeks
Right outside their sleeping area we have a toilet area with chosen surface. We use puppy pads.
At this time, the pups can get out of the whelping box on their own, and find their way back in.
Key to this process is keeping the non potty area scrupulously clean. This means we wash the bedding 3x a day, and any accidents in the wrong area are cleaned up with an enzyme spray so their noses get constant reinforcement of what is a clean area and what is dirty.
In their potty area we cover pees with paper and pick up poos but leave a potty smell without letting them track it through their clean area. This is hard work at the beginning, lots of washing, but teaches them to like being clean.
THEN, we move the potty area farther and farther away from the bed. Pups like it at opposite end.
After 4 Weeks
From this point onward we try to get the puppies outside at least every 2 hours from 7am till 10pm, this gets them used to toileting outside. Again we have toilet outside area and play outside area.
After 8 weeks…MOSTLY YOUR TURN
Paper is now removed for pups over 8 weeks at breeders home, or when they get to their new home. The only place to toilet now is outside.
Do not use pee pads if you can help it. Only if you have to leave your puppy longer than their bladder can hold. Even get up in the night to let them out. It really does speed up toilet training. Peeing is for outside only, or you are teaching your new pup it is okay to potty inside your home.
Take advantage of any early training the breeder hopefully has already done. Teach your pup to potty on a designated spot outdoors, making him think.
It is important to let your puppy walk to the door, as this is how they learn to tell you they need to go.
Treats can be a distraction too, quiet and gentle praise that does not over excite, and the pleasure of relief is the only reward they need. Crate training is also really useful during this time of training.
Do NOT use the Misty Method for older puppies. This method is only for pups 3 to 8 weeks of age who have not yet left the breeder.
WE WORK HARDER TO GIVE YOUR PUPPY A HEAD START IN THIS AREA
Most breeders do not do this as it’s much more work. Whether it is done as formally or not though, a breeders house which generally smells of wee, except in a very confined area is teaching them to be comfortable with being dirty, and this will take longer for them to break the habit. So if you get your puppy elsewhere here are some hints in what to look for
Things to look for....
is there a defined dirty area, and clean area
is the puppies bedding kept scrupulously clean,
does the place smell generally clean apart from defined dirty area. Puppies are largely trained by their noses.
are the puppies themselves clean or do their paws smell of poo
are they encouraged to toilet outside and get used to using different surfaces (many breeders will not do this as they are afraid of infection. I personally believe in building up a natural and robust immune system, but respect their choice in this matter. it does mean harder work for owner though)
About Early Spay neutering, Bullet Point Summary of Benefits
About Early Spay neutering, Bullet Point Summary of Benefits
- No unwanted puppies
- Fast recovery with fewer complications
- Prevention of certain cancers and health problems
- No unwanted male tendencies such as marking and roaming
- No testosterone driven male aggression and dominance
- More affectionate pet
- Behaviour gender neutral, so personality and temperament should be determining factor not sex.
About Early Spay/Neutering …detailed account for any who want more detail
This is a process of desexing an animal before they reach sexual maturity, while they are at the breeders house. It has benefits for the puppy and the owner.
As breeders we feel we have several responsibilities:- to invest in happy healthy puppies which have the right input to make happy balanced pets; to support and do what we can to ensure happy owner experience with their puppies AND to play our part in responsible breeding, for the reputation of the breed and health of future generations.
Early spay neutering feeds into all goals but especially ensures no accidental breeding. Responsible breeding is an expensive and responsible process making sure that appropriate genetic health tests, hip scores, inbreeding percentage etc are done to ensure a healthy breed. This is really important, and many hobby breeders do not commit to these processes which could end up with introducing problems to the breed which are then difficult to eradicate.
It also ensures none of our puppies will end up in puppy farms giving rise to future unsocialised pups which, due to bad breeding practises end up unwanted in animal shelters.
Australian Labradoodles have always been selected in this way which is part of why you as a buyer can have confidence in the health of the puppy you are buying.
Benefits For The Puppy
Instead of a week or more of discomfort, and a bewildering experience, puppies come back after surgery to a comforting feed with mum, the company of siblings, and then are bounding about as usual within hours. They recover so much quicker than 6 month old puppies! There are many fewer complications from the operation.
It prevents many cancers, and several other health problems, such as, mammary and uterine cancer, uterine infections, prostate enlargement and cancer and other related infections.
But I’ve heard/ read its bad for them?
There is some conflicting research, and some breeds it can affect coat development/ growth rate. HOWEVER, there is also extensive research showing no ill effect and only positive, so this might be breed dependant. I can pass no comment on suitability for other breeds.
Extensive Studies Conducted on the Benefits or Drawbacks of Early Spay or Neuter done by The University of Florida found that early spay and neuter has no known ill side affects. Research suggested that it can actually increase recovery time and decrease pain. Years ago anaesthetic techniques were not available to treat such young animals and they needed to wait until they were older. However, today that is not a concern. Studies conducted on animals ages 7 weeks to 12 months reacted the same to the desexing process. They also found that both the neutered and non-neutered group of animals were equally as active.
In an article written by Dr. Richard Allen, DVM for Best Friends Magazine in October 1999, he stated that both early spay/ neuter pets and regular spay/ neuter pets lived as long and happy lives as any other.
Australian Labradoodle have an extended history of this process and NO problems have been recorded. All genuine Australian labradoodles will have had this process as that is part of the contract breeders of this breed are subject to.
Benefits to the owner
No chance of unwanted litters or messy female seasons.
It removes many of the undesirable male dog tendencies. Once learned these behaviours can continue even after neutering, this way these undesirable behaviours never develop.
There is decreased roaming and marking territory.
Dr. Allen, DVM also stated studies done on early spay and neuter pets and they have found that desexed males have considerably less aggressive / dominance issues.
Most dog attacks on people and children are linked with male dominance issues. This is another factor in ensuring happy positive people and dog relationships with no fear of testosterone driven aggression rearing its head.
Your pet tends to be more affectionate
Research has shown that the puppies are nearly gender neutral due to the early desexing process. This means it makes very little difference whether your pup is a girl or a boy. The number one thing to consider when choosing a puppy is the temperament and personality that suits your household, not gender.
Feedback on Last Litter, Ones That Have Gone To Their Forever Homes
Feedback on Last Litter, Ones That Have Gone To Their Forever Homes
Just wanted to let you know that Einstein travelled home really well - he slept in his crate the whole journey 😊
Since arriving home he has been out successfully for six toilet trips and is now having a play before bed.
We are beyond thrilled to finally have him home and can’t thank you guys enough for the amazing start you have given him and the fantastic support you have provided to us in the lead up to our bringing him home. We will, of course, keep you updated on his progress, but for now all is perfect 😊
Flick and Jade
NEXT DAY….. He did amazingly well went into his crate at 11 and only woke once at 4. Took him out for a wee and put him back in - he cried for about 3 minutes then settled again until we got him up at 7 He has had his breakfast and is now busy playing. He has started to come when we call him which is incredible and we even got him to lie down a couple of times yesterday using the technique Rachel showed us! We are so happy
2 DAYS LATER…Yesterday Einstein went for his first visit to the vet for an initial check up. She was really happy with him and said he is in great condition 😊 He was really chilled out while she was handling him and took the whole experience very much in his stride.
He had another good night last night, sleeping through from 11-5 and then again until 7! He seems really happy in himself and is currently busy playing with the Natural Instinct delivery box 😊
Perfect thankyou! Poppy got back fine and is settling in great already! She has napped in her crate too!
AFTER FIRST NIGHT…..Hi, she was amazing last night, took her out at the times you said and she went toilet each time striaght away!
Philia travelled home like a dream. Only becoming agitated when she needed a wee! Wonderful! We stopped, she wee'd (just before Birmingham) and then I popped her in her crate for the rest of the journey. She slept the whole of the rest of the way! She is currently sleeping at my feet as I type this and ate all her tea beautifully. She has wee'd 3 times outside in her designated spot. What a credit to you all, and especially Talitha, she is. I know my daughter Nancy will want to keep Talitha updated with Philia's progress and photos - so we'll send some updates later this week! She is really happy and affectionate and settled (after a little cry at first) - we'll see how tonight goes!
Just a quick email to say Juno is settling in very well! She’s just so well behaved for such a young puppy - we’re shocked! She’s sleeping very well at night, she hardly whines, she’s toileting outside, she loves a cuddle - she’s just perfect! Thank you for all the hard work you’ve put into all the puppies, I think it really pays off.
Chris and Anna
FIRST DAY….Nellie has settled very well and seems very happy. Only one tiny accident so far and she will toilet and sit on command. She’s as bright as abutton.
DAY 5…She’s getting on brilliantly. She is happy and learns very fast. We haven’t had any more mishaps, she will toilet and sit to command. We absolutely love her!
Just thought I would send you an email to let you know how Sydney is doing.
He slept amazingly well last night which shows he is comfortable and happy in his crate. I’m taking him outside every 20-25 minutes to use the toilet and every time he uses the toilet outside, I’m giving him a small treat - which he loves!
He enjoys playing and I’m making sure we give him plenty of opportunities to do so. This week, we have different people of different ages to come round to play with him which should help his socialisation.
Tom and Rowan
PUPPY STRIDER (BEAR)
He’s getting along well I think! He’s already had plenty of trips to the bathroom outside and has now completed both ‘events’ in the designated area!
He did NOT like going in his crate the first time around for a snooze, but he settled after about 15 or 20 minutes. Second time around was a lot better - only a few minutes of complaining. He’s sound asleep now having had a good run around.
To be honest at first when he went in the crate we didn’t know if we should take him out as he barked away, but we held firm and kept him in there giving him reassurances every now and then and finally he settled. That felt like a big step for us, getting over the emotional heart wrenching pleas from Strider!
It looks like Bear is going to win the naming game as well!
What a lovely fellow he is!
Paul and Katya
NEXT DAY….First night went well - he hadn’t seen upstairs really as the cats retreated up there, and thought it best to keep him downstairs most of the time so he gets used to this area where he will spend most of his time. So when it was bedtime we all trooped up and he went into his crate with some chicken treats quite happily. He did then make some noise but it was really short lived minutes of whining if that, the best yet! He slept then until 2am when he had a little whine and bark but again didn’t last too long and he was out then till 5am.
We took him for his morning constitutional (great going so far! I think now 7 pees and a poo - I’ll stop counting but we’re so proud of him!) and then put him back in the crate with us downstairs till 7am. And he didn’t like that at all - I think he barked for a good hour and a bit before we went for toilet and breakfast.
I’ve never seen food disappear so quickly! He sure loves it and no trouble eating! He hasn’t had morning poo yet, we took him out a few times but no go, so we’ve had a play with him and he is currently chewing on one of his toys.
So we will take him out shortly for an attempt at quick-quicks and then back in the crate for a few hours.
He is such a lovely little chap! We really love him to bits already! And he is such a sweet little dreamer - once or twice he has fallen asleep with his toys and had his little paws have all been going and little grunts and other cute noises! :)
ONE WEEK LATER… The toilet training has been great! He has had a few accidents but nothing major and nothing now for the last two days!
He has around three to four poos a day! He’s a machine! He’s loving his food and we’ve bought a new chest freezer to keep a decent stash of food (sticking with what he knows and clearly loves). Ive never seen dog poo like it before, it’s great and so easy to deal with! He has even taken to doing his business in the bushes which is even better!
Bear went to the vet today and all is looking really well there - the vet said he is one of the finest pups she has seen and she owns the surgery), in really good shape and looking really healthy. He’s now weighing in at ~4.5kg so growing nicely!
Well we’d honestly like to thank you for being such amazing breeders. It is really clear how much hard work has been put in. We have a gorgeous, calm and happy puppy who has settled unbelievably well.
He travelled well and adjusted to our home and to us very quickly.
He is toiletting outside really well.
He had a fantastic night. I let him out around 5 and then he went through to 7am no problems or fuss.
So thank you for our lovely adaptable puppy. He seems very happy indeed
Training and Expectations
Training and Expectations
So you bring your Puppy home, you’ve chosen a good breeder (hopefully) who’s started you off on the right foot, what comes next? What do you expect?
The best way to get your head round it is to think of a new born baby. You know where they are all the time and never leave them unsupervised unless in bed or a safe space. It’s the same with your puppy. You need to be ready to accept that for the first 6 months or so your puppy needs to be either
- Closely supervised by you, within a few feet
- Tethered to you ( a really good way of getting in tune with each other and preventing undesirable behaviours)
- In a play pen
- In a crate
NOT just let out in the garden or given free roam of the house. WHY? Half of puppy training is teaching and rewarding behaviour you DO want, the other half is preventing them having the opportunity to do things you don’t want. Prevention is so much more effective than cure
We will have done what we can to set you up for success, many things you’ve read about in our other e mails, but if we are able we will also have exposed them to a collar, lead, crate but proper familiarisation with these is part of your early work
When should they be toilet trained? Really you need to think 6 months old. Of course they will be well on the way before the
New deposit conditions
It is always a challenge to us to know how to approach deposits to be fair to 1) the puppies 2) you the customer 3) ourselves as we want to focus on the puppies rather than worrying if we have found them good homes
New deposit policy, breaking news…..
We have always felt that the first to place a deposit should be the first to choose and for that order to be maintained (always reserving the right to keep puppies for breeding purposes). That has seemed fair to us, and has actually always worked out with everyone getting a puppy they are happy with.
We still advocate choosing a puppy based on personality match rather than more superficial traits, however recognise some people have a very strong idea of the sex and colour they want.
We are trialling an extended offer that if you have very specific requests regarding colour and sex and when your turn to choose from the litter comes that choice is no longer available and you are not interested in the remaining puppies we will then refund your deposit.
In order to keep this option open we will be prepared to accept more deposits than puppies available letting individual know when this is the case, so they are first in line if a puppy becomes available at the selection stage. This is the only way we can think to be fair to those who committed early but want to meet the puppies before deciding, and to those who are very sure what they want.
I would encourage you though to seriously consider other factors such as breeder investment. We cannot offer the same availability as many breeders, but that is part of why our puppies are so special and will make a much longer lasting impression than hair colour or sex.
I hope this helps, and you think this is a fair approach
What to expect examples
What to expect examples
Sometimes people ask what they need to have in place/ what a day would look like with a new puppy.
While this page is not a instruction manuel on many things it is a rough guide of what a routine might look like as guidance as to whether you can meet a puppies needs.
Toilet-feed-Toilet play-train-toilet lift water for evening
Toilet then crate
The above is an example for an 8 week puppy, they may even need more sleep than this especially if you work on socializing which may be a longer awake time in one session, and training which tires their brains. At 9 weeks hopefully they will do 11:30-5:30 at night, at 10 weeks 11:00-6:00, 11 weeks 10:30-6:30, and 12 weeks 10:00-7:00 all being well.
Now your Puppy is 3 months old they can do 3 hours in the crate, and hopefully 1-11/2 hrs awake, maybe 1-11/4 hrs if you are going to be at home to let them out after 2 hrs in the crate, or 11/2 hrs if they are then going to have a 3hrs crate time. I’ll try and give a couple of examples so you can see the sort of flexibility depending on whether you are at home or out
Toilet-feed-toilet play train-toilet
Toilet-play 5ish feed drink toilet
Toilet-play-feed about 5-toilet-crate
Toilet play train toilet
Crate for night
Crate for night
By now you will know your puppy better and hopefully be going to classes etc so times will be flexible and your schedules may be different these are only examples.
4-6 months old
7:00 till leave
Toilet-play-feed at 12 toilet-play toilet
12-2 if possible
Toilet-play feed around 5 toilet
Crate for night
Crate for night
I hope these prove useful in gauging what support you will need to have in place for your puppy. You see I mention training a lot. This is partly because training is important to have a pleasurable pet, but even more so because mental exercise is as important to this breed as physical. This are not all intence exercises but a mix of formal training such as sit, stay, leave etc and brain games such as find the treat etc.
As you can see a full time job and a dog are not the best mix. The schedules on the right are doable, but not what are ideal for every day, I would like to say not more than 3-4 days a week, for a happy dog. If your schedule looks more like the one on the right every day, maybe a dog is better for a different season.
Hope this helps
Tell us about yourselves
Tell us about yourselves
Before taking a deposit,
could you answer these questions?
- Have you owned a dog before?
- Who is in your family, pets and people
- Will there be someone at home with the puppy most of the time especially during potty training phase?
- Do you have a safe enclosed outside space for your puppy?
- Do you have long term plans for dog care if you need to be out for extended periods of 4 plus hours?
- Are you experienced in training or have you thought of training programme, I highly suggest a puppy 1 to 1 with an experienced trainer?
- Do you have any particular lifestyle needs that would be good for us to know about in order to help you select the right puppy for you?
What About Vaccination?
What About Vaccination?
I am not saying don’t vaccinate, just get informed and come to an agreement with your vet about a compromise. This is why I don’t start the vaccination process as a breeder. Two main reasons.
Early vaccines has been shown NOT effective because of mothers antibodies, and we encourage natural weaning of puppies so the maternal antibodies are high. We are all concerned with the health of our puppies/dogs, and generally as a society have opted for vaccines being the way forward. However, this is not a straightforward picture. Vaccines are NOT a case of all benefit and no risk. There is a risk to them, and the higher the frequency, the higher the risk. Some breeds are more susceptible than others. Poodle is one of the susceptible breeds, so please consider this carefully as your Puppy is a close relative genetically to Poodle.
- there will be lots of maternal antibodies
- Different vets use different protocols, so your Puppy may end up getting even more vaccines by a vet change.
Please read these 2 links to get informed, then maybe print them out and take them to your vet and discuss with them, BEFORE you bring your puppy home. It’s much less stressful talking about these things without a squirming puppy, and the vets is the least ideal place to take a puppy unnecessarily in case sick dogs have been there. I will put my personal compromise of choice at the end, but this is your responsibility to decide where you want to balance risks and benefits. If your vet is difficult about talking about this, I suggest looking for another vet. I’m not saying they will agree with this, but you should be able to talk about it without being made to feel bad for asking the questions.
These links explain the issues, research, and suggested safe guidelines in relatively plain English. There are more medical papers out there if you want to search further.
So….What you do is your choice, but some of you ask what we do. This is NOT telling you what to do, BUT is an example of a compromise.
We wait till 12 weeks
At 12 weeks we give basic distemper, parvo and canine hepatitis vaccine and the 2nd at 14-16 weeks and until then socialise puppy out and about in arms and encourage meeting with known immune/ vaccinated dogs at home.
We then assume puppy is covered but wait 10 days to expose out and about as immune system suppressed after vaccine.
We start puppy socialisation and training classes at 14 weeks.
We then Do Not do boosters but assume vaccinated for life, if unsure we do a titre test at 1 year. Always been fine. We then check antibody levels before breeding.
Between bringing puppy home at 8/9 weeks and starting classes at 14 weeks we recommend a personalised training programme with a 1 to 1 consultation to get you off to a good start.
The down sides of this choice are waiting slightly longer for classes and on ground socialisation. That is what you will have to factor in. If you do decide to go a more conventional route, I do recommend at least letting puppy settle in with you one week as stress affects immunity, and moving home is a stressful experience, again up to you
ALL the best with this decision
Useful Puppy Basics
Useful Puppy Basics
- Wire dog crate with divider, a small crate is usually provided for starters, but a medium with divider is what we recommend
- Play pen area if you can your puppy does really need 100% supervision or a safe space where you can take your eye off for a while and a play pen can ring the changes from a crate
- A piece of vet bed for play pen area or to put in different areas of house near you as its spot
- A collar and either a dog tag or collar with details. Include your phone no, and vets phone no. I personally do not include their name or our address as it makes it harder for a thief to pretend the dog is theirs, only gives a way to get them back to you
- Poo bags
- Enzyme spray for any messes
- A few puppy pads (we will provide some) hopefully NOT to be used, but if you MUST leave puppy longer than allotted time without toilet opportunity. Their use will slow down house training though
For puppy behaviour
- Adaptil /pet calm to help initial transitions. It is useful to have a spray for first few journeys etc but a room diffuser for first month a good idea too
- Bitter apple spray to deter chewing
- Suitable chew toys, soft and hard (look up kongs they are a good make, which can be stuffed with treats but they have other things the wubbas are good, and rope tug toys are good. A selection of toys whether homemade or bought is important so there are plenty of ‘yes’ objects, which can be rotated.
- Clicker we recommend for training. They are used to clicker work
- Treats, basic and special. Home-made treats like cooked chicken breast, burger or frankfurters are high currency treats, but only to be given in pea size for a small puppy. We also like coachies or Trixie happy mix treats as normal treats, broken even smaller for regular positive rewards, and then something a bit special for when the go in the crate, and other very well done situations
- Dog training books, and if you can, a one to one puppy consultation with a dog trainer if this is a first time for you, followed by training classes. This is a great way to bond with your puppy, I will recommend some resources soon
- Please book puppy training classes, look for small classes with reward based philosophy, these are important even if experienced as they help your puppy learn to obey you in public with distractions. Not classes which have puppy mayhem for socialisation but structured work in the presence of other puppies
- Halti lead, and a long lead for training. Harness for socialisation. I do NOT recommend a retractable lead unless you want to teach your puppy to pull on the lead.
- A brush
- Nail clippers, for the babies I have been using baby nail clippers up till now, larger ones may be needed soon
- Hair dryer
- Find a good groomer for bigger jobs. Locally I recommend Jayne Stevens, mobile groomer 07754 168674
- Mini hand held clippers. This is really for handling and desensitising purposes, so they are not frightened by groomer
- If feeding raw, some freezer space and supplier…some local butchers, pet shops, vets, or internet companies such as natural instinct, nurturing by nature, Durham animal feeds, nutriment NB MUST CONTAIN RAW MEAT AND BONE
- Raw meaty bones especially chicken or other poultry necks and wings
- Please at least plan to do this for first week while puppy settles then if changing diet consider using natures menu for that process, although I would expect you to see a quick change in stools
- Healthy chew things for crate time eg stuffed kongs ( you can look up recipes) pizzle sticks, recreational bones, tripe sticks, cow hooves, chicken feet, occasional pigs ears etc. Crate time means chew time. Can also be their food allowance frozen into a kong, or a frozen meaty bone from their food allowance
MOST IMPORTANTLY LOTS OF LOVE, TIME AND AFFECTION AND REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS!!
Hope this helps
About visiting day
Visiting day is coming up soon for some of you. We have tried to space you out so the puppies get some rest in between, but thought we’d let you know what to expect.
They are still very young and on regular milk feeds and hopefully by then 4 solid feeds a day, so the chances of them needing one or the other during your visit is reasonable.
We do ask you to be mindful of cross infection, so please wear clothing that hasn’t been around other dogs and wash the soles of your shoes before you come. We will ask you to wash your hands, but otherwise you will have free reign with the puppies when they are not feeding.
Please wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty as accidents can happen, and with 13 puppies I can’t guarantee there wont be some mess somewhere, although we will do our best. If you want to bring some treats I recommend a little lightly boiled chicken in tiny pieces, roughly grain of rice sized. This will be very exciting for those that get the hang of it and is a treat we have reserved for you to introduce so that meeting you guys is a very special experience.
Suggestion to bring
If you are unlikely to see the puppies again before taking them home then you may like to bring some items of clothing of family members. These should be well worn, even work up a sweat and dry yourself with the items. Then put them in a zip lock bag with your name on. I will use these in the last few days we have the puppies so your puppy is familiar with your smell. I ask for several as then we have reserves if one gets soiled and we need to wash it. Also, please write your name on the item and bag in a waterproof pen, so if we play with the items and your puppy we can reconnect the right one. The other alternative is you send these in the post a few days before collecting your puppy. This is in some ways better as it will be fresher, but more hassle to remember. The choice is yours.
LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING YOU SOON
As there are so many I haven’t quite worked out the logistics of where we will spend time with the puppies. It has always been outside till now but is too cold for that at this time of year. I think I will set up a pen separate to put those which are not immediately being looked at and you can spend a little time watching the rest interact, then if 3 catch your eye we may either take the others out or take those remaining with you in another room to interact with more closely, away from their Mum. I recommend narrowing it down to 3 as quickly as possible as this is a nice number to interact with, and you will be playing an important part in their socialization as well. Very exciting.
Now that you are ready to reserve your puppy, here are the relevant details
- Please make sure we have sent and you have replied to the section telling us about yourselves
- When ready please if possible make your deposit of £300 using bank transfer to the following details with the reference of your Surname to identify the payment
- Bank sort code both passed on at the time
- Bank account no
- Please then e mail firstname.lastname@example.org confirming that you have sent it and confirming the surname that was used for payment. This helps us double check everything has gone through
- You should then receive an email from us within 24 hrs (probably sooner) to confirm receipt of payment and tell you the position of reservation. Just to reiterate puppy selection is in order of reservation except any that are reserved for breeding purposes. If any are being kept for breeding this will be confirmed at selection time about 5 weeks.
COVID 19 RESPONSE
In these uncertain times we will be adapting our methods to fit with current guidelines.
Our day to day programme and involvement with the puppies should not be affected, although our socialisation programme will be focusing on using household members of which luckily there are currently 9-10 of us covering different ages and sexes. We will be creative in dressing differently and in challenging clothes to stretch their exposure, without breaching social distancing policies.
Visiting day. We will follow relevant current guidelines, and if personal visiting still not advisable we will do a creative skype, face time or zoom puppy selection with an interactive arrangement and set up to help you see puppies characters, looks and personalities. We also offer a watts app group to those who have put down deposits so you can feel really involved with their growth, activities and development. This is something whole family could enjoy and feel involved in a really positive focus while waiting for your puppy if feeling cooped up.
If still on a restricted set up by the time puppies go home we will offer a delivery service at a reasonable cost depending on distance or do an outside handover with appropriate controls and procedures to respect appropriate social distancing guidelines at the time. This is not our preference, but we are sure a suitable procedure can be put in place. We will wait till closer to the time to determine what those should be as things are changing so quickly.
We will be continuing to offer support for those who want it via watts app after the puppies return home, and although we suggest joining face to face puppy classes as soon as possible, we will suggest on line classes too, and puppy socialising suggestions within the guidelines of the time. There are all sorts of things you will be able to do. Puppies under 4 months really only take short trips out, so you are looking towards October before you are really thinking of doing much more than training and short socialising trips with your puppies. A new family friend could be a really positive focus during a time of restrictions.